Heathkit Ar-1500 Manual
Heathkit IT-12 With Probe. Shipped FedEx Ground Delivery. This unit has been restored and is working well. The speaker switches are a bit touchy but they work.
I used Deoxit on the volume control and the slide switches. The 1629 eye tube has been replaced as well. I always overpack for shipping so your items will arrive safely and in the condition you see here. I always ask for a signature upon delivery because so many items sprout legs and walk off.
Please let me know if this will be a problem because someone will need to home to sign for your package.%0a73%0aKF5QAA.
Well, I took a few minutes to check out the stuff and I'm posting some pictures below. Unfortunately, the speakers have 2 different serial numbers. It looks like they must have had two pair and the sets got mixed up, as I also got two manuals with them.
I cleaned the amp up and plugged it in. I hit the power button and touched the volume button and received a nice electric shock.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it yet, but plugging it in, hitting the power and touching the volume knob are definitely out.What was really weird was that I had some nightmares last night in which I was electrically shocked. Weird huh?Anyway, I posting some pics below. Serial numbers are unique. Not the same. Speakers that are matched, usually have sequential s/n s.If your amp has a 2 prong plug, rotate the plug 180 degrees from the shocking position.
Report back.I have an amp that will shock me if I have the plug in wrong. I put a mark on the plug body for reference. In the incorrect position the hot line from the A/C recepticle is going to the amp chassis ground. So if I touch the chassis, I become the shortest route to gound. Hence the shock.You can replace 2 wire cords with 3 wire cords, also. Hot, Neutral & safety ground. Warning, terrible amp, keep away from speakers.Never mind a mild shock.
Be careful of what the amp will do to your speakers! It likely is already blown out and is DOA. I had a friend in 1969 who had the receiver version of that (AR15) and it would blow up at any time.
And take 2 whole speaker systems with it! A very poorly designed amp and no good for output device protection. And it seems to throw raw DC into speakers, Toast! Horrible, Horrible. My advise, never plug it in again.
You did well with the speakers, but check them out, they may have been killed by that Assassin amp. Never mind a mild shock. Be careful of what the amp will do to your speakers! Index of parent directory windows iso.
Heathkit Ar-1500a Manual
It likely is already blown out and is DOA. I had a friend in 1969 who had the receiver version of that (AR15) and it would blow up at any time. And take 2 whole speaker systems with it! A very poorly designed amp and no good for output device protection. And it seems to throw raw DC into speakers, Toast! Horrible, Horrible. My advise, never plug it in again.
You did well with the speakers, but check them out, they may have been killed by that Assassin amp. Click to expand.Yes, I would imagine so. It does not matter if the fuse is on the amplifier or speaker side. It's purpose is to prevent too much current from blowing the speakers. I personally don't like using speaker fuses as they seem to have a slight effect on the sound, but in the case where there might be amplifier problems they are nice. Once you determine that the amplifier works fine, if it does, they can be removed.
But if this amp has a history of problems they should probably stay in the circuit. The effect on the sound is minimal and preventing the speakers from blowing is important.Regarding the noisy pot, contact cleaner usually will work, depending on the severity of the problem. If it is just oxidation the cleaner should work. If there is serious pitting going on, the control will likely need to be replaced. Joe Ninohernes should be able to chime in and suggest the best way to get to the controls. He is very knowledgeable in general, but specificaly with AR speakers. There is also an AR forum with lots of useful info.
Heathkit Ar 1500 Receiver
Usually the woofer has to come out to get access to the control, and that can be tricky if the grilles are not easily removable.